I went to the hardware store and they were out of masks. Needing to get some sanding done to finish off the kitchen renos – I just made one!
Wearing a mask over your nose and mouth is very important when using many power tools.
Sanding, cutting plaster, using a saw, plane or router… Renovating is lots of fun, but always be vigilant about keeping your face (and eyes) covered so you don’t inhale saw dust or plaster dust.
This quick easy sew is FREE for you to make your own, enjoy!
This mask is designed to be worn with safety glasses so it curves from the bridge of the nose, down across cheeks. The contoured fit includes darts, deep cheek coverage and a snug fit under chin. The space between the nose and mouth extends beyond the lips to allow some breathing room. The two separate ties make the fit adjustable to suit you.
I find these masks great for about half an hour. If you need to use a mask for longer, do make yourself a few so you can swap to a fresh mask as needed.
There are lots of other uses for these handy masks too. The kids do love to dress-up and play doctors!
3 sizes are included: SMALL (5-10yrs), MEDIUM (Teen/Ladies), LARGE (Mens).
Bias binding: Small 2m, Med 2.2m, Lg 2.4m. Lengths printed on the pattern piece.
You can experiment with fabrics, but I prefer to use polycotton for the outer as it is a tight weave for stopping particles and a 100% cotton for the inner as it is most comfortable against skin as well as being absorbent.
Seam allowance is 7mm and is already included in the pattern pieces.
Download and print the PDF pattern pieces here. I find the internet browser PDF viewers a little unreliable. Best option is to save it and open in ADOBE reader.
The important stuff: This pattern is free for you to make masks for yourself, charity and as gifts. Selling of masks made from this free pattern is not allowed. It may not be copied or distributed in any format by you. You may share a link to this page for others to come to this site to get their own free copy themselves.
SEWING A DUST MASK
Start by cutting out two of your pattern pieces. Remember to place the pattern piece on the folded edge of fabric when cutting.
Mark the dart line on the back of your fabric (I just use a regular pencil).
The dart needs to be 1cm wide at the edge of the fabric and taper in toward the end of the dart line.
Match the centre of each bias binding strip to the central nose seam / chin seam when sewing binding to top edge and bottom edge. Sew from one end of the binding to the other end. Repeat for the next raw edge.
12mm bias binding was used in this example, which is 6mm wide when sewn on.
If you are not super comfortable with sewing bias binding yet, I would recommend using a wider option such as 18-22mm bias binding. 25mm is getting a bit too wide though.
For a neat finish, fold the ends of your bias binding strips inward before sewing them together so there are no raw ends.
BIAS BINDING BASICS
All you need is a strip of cotton or polycotton fabric that is cut at a 45 degree angle (the bias) to the selvage edge of your fabric. Selvage is the edge that usually has the fabric name printed on it and is not a raw/cut edge.
For the 18mm binding maker, I cut my strips 3.5cm wide. Use a pin to help poke the strip through the back. Then simply drag it along the ironing board and follow with your iron.
Fold this around a raw edge and sew!